Belaying with weight difference. Feb 2, 2025 · While everyone knows that belaying is a vital part to keep climbing safe, you might feel daunted when you have to belay someone who is significantly heavier than you. These issues are even more Mar 11, 2024 · When belaying heavier people, adding friction to the system increases safety. I find it extremely hard to control anything without my feet on the ground. What is your actual weight difference out of interest? In situations (like on grit) where you really don't want to go further than necessary a ground anchor with rope would be my bet. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. May 4, 2024 · Key features of the Edelrid OHM II: Approved rope diameter: 8. We'll cover how to set up your belay device and perform a standard top rope belay. Is it possible to be too heavy for rock climbing? There is no weight limit for rock climbing. Aug 18, 2020 · The Ohm is an excellent device but is only really useful for sport or indoor. May 6, 2009 · How to give a dynamic belay A dynamic belay is dynamic because the belayer moves. My friend is somewhere above 350. We show a fixed point belay method and also how to extend the belay below Feb 9, 2020 · Belaying far from the base of the climb is an invitation to be thrown forcefully into the rock wall while catching a fall. Always. A good tip is when you start lowering do it very slowly, and don't jerk the rope, the sudden stop (or slowing Oct 5, 2021 · I apologize for claiming you don't know much about belaying big weight differences. The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. If the belayer is lighter than the climber, they may decrease how much they move into a catch and leave less slack out. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, perform a safety check, belay with Knowing how to belay from above is an important skill for a climber. The recommended weight difference between the lead climber and the belayer is between 10 to 40 kg (22 to 88 lbs). ) Because this is a bit of an art, lead belaying can take a lot of experience to master. When belaying, safety is your top priority. We use a grigri. So if you weigh 60kg, you are able to belay a 90kg person @ a toprope. May 7, 2024 · Rappel vs. Weight differences between climber and belayer can lead to dangerous situations in climbing. This video shows how to belay a climber with a higher weight difference than you. Yeah, sandbags several sandbags and some serious practice, not just once or twice. There was a detailed thread about belaying with weight differences just the other day. Edelrid Ohm mk 1 did not provide enough resistance and a small fall would turn into a huge whip, abruptly stopped when the belayer's belay device Please consider weight differences before starting up a lead climb. As a lighter person than your climbing partner, you can do this with confidence. Now it's probably reckless for the heavy partner to climb a ways up past the last placement and pitch off if there is a large difference as you will get violently pulled up. A lighter belayer will naturally give a dynamic belay because they are automatically pulled into the air. Sep 13, 2015 · If the belayer is the heavier, it doesn't make a difference. The lead climber cannot outweigh their belayer by more than 40 lbs. You can compensate for the heavier climber by anchoring the belayer. The belayer requires significantly less hand braking force to arrest a fall. Whether at the base or belaying from a stance, think about how the belayer will catch the climber. Rob Greenwood's initial scepticism was blown out of the water when he got Difference in weight shouldn't matter - good belaying is good belaying. May 19, 2023 · The Edelrid Ohm Brake is a game-changing tool for climbers facing significant weight differences between the belayer and climber. “That is to say the risk for a heavier lead climber if their partner has difficulty controlling their falls and the risk for a lighter belayer if their partner’s falls pull them off the ground, hurling them against Correct belaying methods allow a belayer to hold the entire weight of the climber with relatively little force and easily arrest falls. As a result, the clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to the The second generation of our innovative and successful OHM is easier to use than ever thanks to a number of updates. If the climber is heavier, it makes minimal difference. Lead belaying, weight differences do make a big difference. But that’s not always the case. This is also known as belaying the second (i. The assisted-braking resistor for increasing the braking effect when climbing in rope teams with major weight differences has a swivel joint that improves the device’s freedom of movement. May 13, 2025 · Plus, it adds a bit of extra breaking security into the mix, which is great, especially if there’s a big weight difference between you and your climbing partner (s). Brace with a foot against the wall if you need to. Rather than explaining how it works in words you are probably better off watching the video above. As the others have said already be prepared to be lifted once in a while, and don't let go. Belaying a climber using lead climbing technique For access from the bottom, the I’D allows belaying a lead climber, who clips the rope through intermediate anchor points as he/she climbs. You will get better at judging how far people fall with a certain amount of slack and it becomes intuitive. Jun 19, 2023 · Discover the basic principles of belaying, and how they can be applied to top-rope belaying and to skilled lead belaying—including catching lead falls. Perfect for . I've been climbing for many years but everyone I've climbed with has been relatively close to my weight - I'm around 150 for context. Edit to add: I also use an ATC, not a gri gri but that’s mostly because it’s what I learned with. I know most people don’t wear gloves but my hands are so sensitive that any friction leaves bad blisters. Now you can enjoy sports climbing with soft belays, regardless of the weight difference. The german alpine club (DAV) suggests a maximum weight ratio of 50% when TRing (e. Rope was a 9. The ground will win, regardless, so a sudden jerk and stop can cause injury to the belayer's hips. Even similar weight belayers can fly in some circumstances after all, it's just more likely when there's a big weight difference. I'm quite light so I have to admit it is possible to belay someone double my weight but it does put strain on my body and well in a way frustrating from the side that I do much more "work" than my partners with belaying. So before big person sets off up route, both should think about ideal place for belayer to stand and think about where s/he would fly to, and achor if needs be. THE MODERN ERA Lead belaying is a little more complicated than top rope belaying because it involves the constant push and pull between giving slack and taking it in. Jul 19, 2022 · Over the last 35 years of climbing and guiding, I’ve belayed innumerable partners who outweighed me, and along the way learned a few tricks both to help me catch them and feel confident belaying them. See the Edelrid Ohm benefits, how to use the Ohm, how the Ohm The second generation of our innovative and successful OHM is easier to use than ever thanks to a number of updates. g. Jan 13, 2021 · In top-rope belaying, if there are small weight differences (around 50lbs or less) between you and your climber, you will likely not be pulled off the ground so long as you are keeping tension throughout the belay. Weight difference between belayer and climber. I want to climb with my friend, but I also don't want my actions to cause him injury even if he agrees to me belaying him knowing the weight difference. Giving slack Jun 28, 2018 · While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to counterbalance the climber when they fall. So here’s my hot tips for climbing with a big weight difference in Apr 3, 2017 · As Edelrid says, “It is a solution for the problems experienced by climbing partners with a significant difference in weight. It might be easier in a lot of cases just to build a ground anchor. 5 to 11 mm. Sure, it’s ideal to be at the same weight or even heavier than your belay partner, but sometimes you’re faced with a situation where you end up being the lighter person in the tandem. I often can’t even get myself over to the wall to put my feet on it. In this article, we’ll teach you everything you need to know about belaying, from the basics to more advanced techniques. As a climber you can weigh double the weight of your belayer! However, the bigger the difference the more caution is to take regarding: I) the overall protect ability of the route: If the route is runout with long potential falls – rather pick another route or find a belayer with similar weight. Jul 7, 2023 · Belaying a lead climber with the Ohm does not affect rope handling or cause additional friction when paying out rope. Mar 16, 2022 · “To belay” is a term with nautical origins that involves securing a rope around another object, for example, a cleat, to stop it from moving. Klettern - aber sicher!, Braun & Heidorn, 2006, p. The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. In short: stay sharp. Climbers spend half of their time belaying—make sure you know all of the nuanced tips on how to belay in every situation. no more than half the weight of the belayer (e. Check out this short 1-minute video on using the proper top-rope belaying method: In reply to sharene: The weight difference should not be a problem, there is usually enough friction as the rope passes through the karibiner (s) at the top of the wall, or the quickdraws. 9mm – 11mm Designed for use in scenarios where there is a significant weight difference between climber and belayer, with the climber being heavier. Anything to make it easier is enticing to me. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. If there is a substantial weight difference, the belayer will likely be pulled up and into the wall. Rope characteristics. The sweet spot, according to them, is when there is a 30% difference between the climbers. Many climbing ropes can support a weight of 2,500 pounds or more, and a belayer doesn’t need to weigh more than the climber. I have learned over time It’s not great on super overhanging routes (especially where bolt 2 is more overhanging than bolt 1) due to the geometry. Stopping a fall can be difficult if the climber is much heavier than the belayer. Correct belaying methods allow a belayer to hold the entire weight of the climber with relatively little force and easily arrest falls. The OHM adds additional friction even when only the first bolt is clipped, reducing the distance of a fall which reduced the likelihood of decking. My boyfriend and I just started top roping. The climber and belayer must ensure that their maximum weight difference does not exceed 40 lbs. It effectively makes the belayer approximately 25 kg heavier, reducing the risk of collision or the belayer being lifted off the ground. How it is given depends entirely on the weight difference between the belayer and the falling climber. You can see the difference between belaying with and without the Edeldrid Ohm in this video: Almost a 100lb difference. Mar 10, 2025 · In order to belay safely, learn how to setup your belay device and practice the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) system. May 23, 2025 · I have a new climbing partner and we have a significant weight difference (75kg, 130kg). The second generation of our innovative and successful OHM is easier to use than ever thanks to a number of updates. It keeps the belay comfortable and strong throughout the belay cycle, and while taking rope in, catching falls, holding weight, and lowering. A heavier belayer needs to be more alert and should aim to adopt a position a couple of meters away from Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. This way, climbers don’t fall very far when they fall. Oct 17, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 43 2) Toprope belaying is doable up to 150% of your own weight. It is equipped with an ergonomic handle that provides a smooth and comfortable descent for the climber. (The right amount of slack in the rope also provides a falling climber a soft, safe catch. I also wear one climbing glove on my right hand to prevent the burn. However, rock climbing is With a huge weight difference, everything is going up much faster and harder than it would with comparable weights. In climbing, a belayer holds a lead climber’s rope and feeds it out as the leader advances upward. Plus, the GriGri’s ability to be used for belaying directly off of an anchor is useful in a multi-pitch scenario. Seasonably, at any rate. These articles explain how to belay using a top rope system and how to climb safely at an indoor climbing wall. Tether the belayer (piece shown in front for clarity). We are currently using a grigri ( they struggle with it and lead belaying cause small hands), and an ATC ( works well just no lockout) We’re looking for ideas and suggestions instead of tying off to hard points on the rock ( hard catches and they take a whiplash), them wearing a ZÆD is an adjustable belay resistor that allows lightweight climbers to belay their heavier climbing partner. 506 likes, 27 comments - wanderingwithmegan on July 19, 2021: "TIPS FOR BELAYING WITH A BIG WEIGHT DIFFERENCE 輪♀️ “Is it safe to belay someone who weighs a lot more than me?” or “what about the safety of the belay?” This is something I get asked or that gets commented on photos of me climbing all the time. My boyfriend and I have about the same weight difference. But with discrepancies between partners comes the challenge of managing weight distribution on either end of the rope. Based on the table above, the GriGri is heavier than the ATC; meaning climbers are also divided in using them because of their weight. Be aware of things like weight differences between climber and belayer, gear setup (watch out for ground falls), and the wear and tear on your device. The Munter hitch, belaying a second from above, conforms naturally to the third fundamental principle of belaying: It positions the hands, limbs, and body according to their natural strength. The heavier the belayer (compared to the climber), the more important it is for them to actively soften the arrest and prevent an abrupt swing into the rock. Tl, dr: As a lighter top rope belayer, get as much directly under the anchor as you can to reduce the force on you. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I have seen small belayers wearing weighted vests while belaying, but that isn't really feasible for outdoors. Mar 2, 2023 · Weight Another difference between the two is the weight. Aug 21, 2018 · Note that Edelrid uses different terminology when talking about the weight differences between the climber and belayer — sometimes they use the actual weight and sometimes the percentage. Oct 25, 2016 · For Heavy Climbers and Light Belayers. You can use sand bags, to add weight, add Z clipping for friction, or use a special device. Compact and lightweight, it can be used with single ropes from 8. Jul 7, 2017 · If there's a big weight difference between lead climber and belayer, the Edelrid Ohm offers a genuine safety gain. Usually, a factor of 1. Adding weight is more common and practical at an indoor facility, but it is still possible outside. This means that a far lighter belayer can hold a fall from a heavier leader without difficulty. I dunno if there is any proven statistic or ratio, but I would not want to belay with that much of a difference. When a sport involves climbing up a rock face with only a rope to catch you if you fall, you probably wonder whether or not there is a weight limit. Staff reserve the right to stop climbers to correct any potential hazardous actions by climbers, at the staff's sole discretion. I don't think there's a point where you would need to decline to belay a heavier leader. belayer 60 kg, climber 90 kg). I think we can both 100% agree that understanding how the friction of your belay device, and the rope, will affect performance is a very necessary thing to know if you expect to provide a solid belay for your climber. Belaying someone with such a big weight factor takes a lot of experience to be safe for both and usually is not recommended at all without additional measures. Nov 27, 2024 · It balances out weight differences in a rope party with three braking levels and reduces the friction at the first bolt thanks to the integrated pulley. With your sandbags you guys will be pushing maybe 350 lbs to 400 lbs dead weight alone. Also the weight difference should only impact when we are talking huge differences in size, especially on TR. In its simplest form, a belay consists of a rope that runs from a climber to another person (the belayer) who can stop the climber's fall. Weighing a mere 190 g, the compact EDELRID OHMEGA is barely noticeable in your backpack or when climbing and belaying—until you need it. Learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the PBUS method and how to lower a climber. When close to the ground, belay without slack and tighter, as there is a risk of touching the ground due to rope stretching. II) your stance while belaying: Check your belay area for obstacles. I weigh about 120 lbs while he weighs about 170. but hey I’m for things that create confidence in your belay and safety Climb on! The second generation of our innovative and successful OHM is easier to use than ever thanks to a number of updates. Does it need an introduction? Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. Thanks for the reply. If the climber is more than 40 lbs heavier than the belayer, we recommend using an Edelrid Ohm. Belaying is one of the most important skills a climber can learn, and it’s essential for keeping yourself and your partner safe while climbing. Jul 26, 2023 · Catching the climber Keep the rope organized and distractions minimized. I didn't think about the rope aspect yet. Countermeasures should be taken to avoid possible injuries if th Jan 30, 2025 · If your posture is suffering because of something like a weight difference, try out an Edelrid Ohm! This nifty device can help disperse the weight differences and allow you to not be so tense while belaying. the second climber). Feb 14, 2009 · The weight difference should not be a problem, there is usually enough friction as the rope passes through the karibiner (s) at the top of the wall, or the quickdraws. e. I generally stay within 50 lbs of my climbing partners. Jun 26, 2023 · Belaying, in essence, is a sophisticated method of controlling a rope to ensure a climber's safety. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. As mentioned earlier, the alpine climber prefers lighter belaying devices and is more inclined to choose ATC because of its lesser weight. If you end up eventually lead belaying with that kind of difference in weight you should keep a fairly tight belay without them feeling it. I have taken some practice falls and a few real ones and I often get lifted up. Beware of belayer / climber weight difference. Here's the issue: She's about 120 lbs, and I'm about 195 lbstips, thoughts, comments, lectures? Please do. This technique is the cornerstone of secure climbing, whether indoors on a climbing wall or outdoors on a natural rock face. Aug 19, 2020 · What is your actual weight difference out of interest? In situations (like on grit) where you really don't want to go further than necessary a ground anchor with rope would be my bet. We've been on a bit of a test campaign to find a way to become compatible as indoor lead climbing partners. See full list on mountainknowhow. One option is to tie weight directly to your harness. Feb 1, 2022 · Transitioning from top roping to lead climbing can be a big challenge. And I doubt there is a magic number for Respectively, if there is a difference more than 15-20kg. I am a pretty small girlie. 3 is recommended to not be exceeded, the safety research department of the German Alpine Association even recommends not going over 10kg of absolute difference for I'm asking because belaying is more about weight ratio than weight difference. Tips for Lightweights Consider using a brake-assisted device. When the lead climber reaches the top, he needs to belay up the climber who was belaying at the bottom. How much weight to add depends, again, on the weight difference between you and your climbing partner. It allows for soft belaying - our testers say ZÆD feels like belaying / being belayed by a climber of the same weight. You could use it on trad but you'd need to spend some time building an anchor that would take the upwards pull and that definitely wouldn't work loose as it moved around. belayer weighs 200pounds,climber 300pounds), without being anchored down or anything. com Sure, you can try to choose climbing partners that match your weight. The climber or belayer should flake the rope to check for inconsistencies in diameter, frays, cuts, or soft spots. I keep pulling them off the ground, sometimes even top roping. Caution when belaying Weight difference: the climber must not weigh more than 1. As a result, the clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to the So my partner was almost 40 pounds less than me. Dec 6, 2016 · Once they're anchored to the ground, or belaying from an anchor, who cares what the weight disparity is as long as they can work the belay device because then their effective weight is orders of magnitude larger than the climber's weight with a proper anchor. This comprehensive guide provides a step-by-step process to ensure safe and effective rope management, allowing climbers to support their partners while minimizing risks. As a result, the clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to the Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Belay — What's the Difference? By Fiza Rafique & Urooj Arif — Updated on May 7, 2024 Rappelling involves descending a vertical surface using ropes, while belaying is the process of securing a climber with a rope system to prevent falls. Nov 2, 2021 · The word belaying originates from an old nautical term meaning to stop or desist from. Learn the essential techniques and steps for belaying in rock climbing. But there’s the option to add some weight to a belayer if the difference is extreme or to use an Ohm device. We break it down with this guide to belaying and climbing on the sharp end. In climbing, it refers to controlling the rope while your partner climbs, so you can help prevent them from falling very far when they lose their grip on the wall. 8mm single, belay device was a click up. A description of the proper method of toprope belaying, and a discussion of some of other important considerations in toprope belay. Forces on the (lighter Perfect devices for belaying with weight difference. During a fall the OHM increases rope friction so the lighter belayer can more easily hold the heavier climber without being pulled off the ground. We have considered getting me a weight vest for belaying because it can cause issues and he’s definitely not comfortable with my lead belaying him with such a weight difference. Frankly, just tell him you do not feel safe belaying, both for his sake and yours and that he should find another belayer. It pays to not have a huge weight difference; if your climber is much heavier than you, then a fall might lift you very high, sometimes into the first piece of protection. Just because you’re experienced or climb often doesn’t give you a free pass to zone out while belaying (yeah, we had to sneak in a pun). This could include weights used for lifting or something as janky as a bag of rocks. The ohm is great for vertical routes, for years I preached the ohm for everyone with a weight difference (and I definitely still use it). Can a 50kg partner safely belay a 82kg climber? At raed we invented a solution that does not only level the weight difference, so it allows lightweight climbers to belay their heavier climbing Learn how to belay. So what can you do if your lead climber weighs much more than you? Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. Replace your ropes often, when you start to buy them. Making your body weight calibrated stretchy rope suffer some. Observing those differences can unlock new understandings about a climb that our own experiences blind us from. I understand the concern about yanking your belayer up to the first piece/bolt. But they also say 10kg is also sufficient to get some extra weight or an anchor point vgl. 5 times the weight of the belayer, i. Hey everyone, just looking for some tips. Take out your Aug 15, 2023 · A 5’1” female will approach the same climb quite differently than her 6’2” male partner. The Edelrid Ohm II acts to increase rope friction between a belayer and the lead climber. As a result, the clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to the advice request for belaying someone with a large weight difference A friend of mine recently started climbing. Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. I've recently began sport leading and would like my girlfriend to start belaying me as she is the one I often climb with. Is it possible to belay someone heavier The Edeldrid Ohm can handle a weight difference of up to 88 lbs (40 kg) between the climber and belayer. I use sandbags when belaying him and make sure to stand with my non dominant foot in front of my dominant one. snv bwk qii uqhdh bhcd mutbgn zlds hrs todicgr uzdzhtv